Captured Soviet Panther A (Part 3): Finished

How ironic.  I finally finish the Panther only to find that the original page can’t be edited anymore!  Error 505 or something.  Oh well.  I’m told image size can cause this general fault and, as some of you have noted, the photos are quite large.  My intention with these guides has always been to provide large photos that show the models, warts and all.  In future, I’ll try resizing the image to get a happy medium between detail and download :).

Anyway, back to the business in hand.  I finally weathered the Panther through a fairly liberal application of MiG Pigments Po23 Black Smoke, Po24 Europe Dust, P033 Dark Mud and Po34 Russian Earth:

On the whole, I’m reasonably happy with how she turned out.  The oval decal isn’t quite right, but it’ll do.  The zimmerit has turned out rather dark. I might be tempted to use a sepia colour to shade next time I do something like this rather than the dark, almost black, brown of the MiG Dark Wash. I’m happy with the weathering and the tracks.

Communist Kitty done.

14 Responses to “Captured Soviet Panther A (Part 3): Finished

  • Urrah! Urrah! Urrah!

  • Well worth the effort J, lovely paint job

  • so cheering finished at a job well done at last (I can just imagine the conversation in the commitee for equipment procurement “Comrade Justinovsky how are you doing with those facist tanks?” “finished Comrade Stalin” “How many Justinovsky?” “One Comrade Stalin” “ONE??!! what did you have to do with it?” “I painted the turret green Comrade Stalin” “Comrade Serov, take this man away and shoot him!”)
    Noting your comments on the yellow being too dark, here’s some thoughts for you:
    Black basecoat does darken things down so, unless you’re really going for the ‘leave some black exposed to make instant shadows’ approach why not try a light grey or even a white basecoat – especially if you’re going to wash the whole surface later?
    Alternatively start with a lighter colour in the first place and darken it up rather than lightening the shadow colour?
    Also did you Klear varnish between the colour coat and the filter wash? If not I would imagine the wash would soak into the matt surface of the base colour.
    But at the end of the day I don’t think it matters; I can’t imagine the Soviets running their tanks through a carwash and it will definitely stand out from a row of T34s.
    I think you could even have painted it flourescent pink – I have a feeling it will be a bullet magnet whatever colour it was as psychologically it’s jobs a goodun. I suspect German players, facing off to a horde of T34s, console themselves mentally with “well I’ve got Panthers”; your opponents now have something to test their mental fortitude.
    I look forward to reading an AAR in which communist kitty survives to the end….

  • Good advice about the Klear coat, but what is it? Is it floor varnish?

    Back to the T34/85s now. ~Unlce Joe would be proud, these are coming along at a snail’s pace!

  • Klear (I think also called Future) is a floor varnish /polish / coating whatever you want to call it. It’s basically a gloss acrylic varnish that is used on floors.
    I was introduced to it by Jay Laverty (on an airbrush course) as an intermediate coat after doing base colours.
    The advantages are: it dries glossy so decals stick to it well with reduced silvering; and it’s really tough, so when applying pin washes and weathering it’s possible to remove any mistakes without going through to the colours underneath, and since its gloss the wash won’t soak into matt surfaces.
    I’ve also seen it mentioned in some of the Flamesofwar Forums as a main ingredient of “magic wash” – there’s a tutorial I think in the modelling forum – basically adding some dark tint to Klear which accumulates in nooks and crannies for shadow effects.
    Personally I still Klear coat my camo colours then wash over.
    The good news is as it is a household floor coating cost is normally reasonable, compared to “artist” materials; the bad news is there’s stories of it going out of production so if you’re in the supermarket and see some pick it up when you can (are we allowed to name shops here?)

  • This is the Peoples’ Republic of Do As You Please, go ahead… 🙂

    • aha so I looked for Klear for a long time in the Tescos I frequented (large and small) and never saw it. Eventually found it in Asda. So bought two large bottles when I had the opportunity. Can’t see it in the ASDA website now but did some surfing on tinternet and found a comment that it is now called Pledge Multi-Surface Wax but don’t know if formula has changed.
      If you search online for Klear you’ll find more comments about modelling than shiny floors 🙂

  • btw it’s airbrushable from the bottle and takes a few coats to make really glossy

  • Primarily I think it’s cost; a little 12ml pot of citadel gloss varnish costs £2.30 whereas I seem to recall paying about £3 for 500ml… It is(was?) acrylic based so doesn’t react with acrylic base coats but acts as quite an effective barrier to oils and solvents used in weathering etc. In the back of my mind is the fact it’s basically a shiny floor finish/polish so can withstand people walking on it, muddy boots, floor cleaner etc for some time before replacing.
    Anyway it’s cheap enough that I don’t mind loading my old badger single action up with it and spraying a few coats, apply decals, and then spray another coat or two over the decals before going onto filters, washes etc.
    Just looked up the pledge replacement and you can find it at around £4 for 750ml. While I was surfing I found some comparison comments at Scale-models.co.uk (google: Johnson Wax Klear Vs Pledge Multi-Surface Wax) seems it works just as well as the Klear.

    • Ah, I see. Interesting. I like the idea of protecting the basecoat. It’s time consuming, but perhaps I’ll give it a whirl.

  • well yes it’s another step in the process but no more time consuming than having to strip the whole thing back to bare model because the filter coat has gone wrong or your decals have silvered etc etc
    Also it dries quite quick and if you’re anything like me there’s always another model in the stash to get started while you wait.

  • future now called pledge with future shine is the same as the old future was. I have been using the new stuff for about 5 months now. yes the real advantage of future is cost, its about $5us or less a bottle and lasts ages, my last bottle lasted me 5 years.

  • I want to get one of these, but my mother won’t allow me!
    , annoying

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