Painting the legendary Razvedchiki 3/3

On to the final installment.  Once again, thanks to you all for the positive feedback and posts.  Rex sent me some very interesting examples of amoeba pattern camouflage unearthed after the war.  3 of the rolls give you a very good idea of the original colours (anyone know what the blue was for?):

I also unearthed a few more photos of  razvedchiki in action, but unless anyone has an overwhelming hankoring to see them I’ll get down to the business in hand.

I followed the advice offered by Rex and others and subtley highlighted the amoebas with thinned (149) Chocolate Brown.  It’s not immediately obvious in the photos below, but it really does make a difference (by the way, I’m totally sold on thinning Vallejo paints down with their thinner, fantastic results):

Over this, I ‘dipped’ a layer of Army Painter’s Soft Tone.  I wasn’t altogether impressed with the results until I dull-coted them and saw the subtleties of tone.  I’d never be able to achieve this sort of effect as easily and in the same a carefree way without Soft Tone 🙂 :

The unfortunate landser got a dunking in Strong Tone as I wanted a darker contrast to the scouts and it suited the grey uniform:

My only regret with the application of Soft Tone was that the facial details and some aspects of the webbing didn’t come out as well defined as I would have like.  I tried putting a small amount of Dark Tone on the faces of one of the scouts, but wasn’t happy with the effect.  I had better results on water bottles and magazine pouches and thought I’d best leave it there.  Overall, I’m very happy with the final effect.  It hasn’t taken too long or been too arduous.

This being a reconnaissance unit, I wanted my bases to be evocative of covered, preferably wooded, terrain. Down went the Vallejo fine grey pumice which, incidentally, is starting to show its age and needed a good stir to mix what I assume was the latex with the pumice stone.  Over this went a coat of Woodland Scenics’ Earth Undercoat later dry-brushed with a 50:50 mix of this and salt-of-the-earth White:

I’ve added a few twigs from the garden to represent blasted stumps / trees. I looked around at some of the nice dead fine leaf foliage from Woodland Scenics but, at £10 a box, reverted back to my existing stock of flock to mix up a colourful combination of Gale Force 9 static grass, fine dark turf and light green ‘coarse grass’ from Jarvis Scenics. Then it was a mix of MiniNatur autumnal tufts:

Probably gone over board on the scenics and obscurred the paint job!  Oh well, razvedchiki done!  I’ll let you know how they get on in Saturday’s game.

27 Responses to “Painting the legendary Razvedchiki 3/3

  • Excellent Justin, they’re definitely looking the part! The basing is also lovely and completes the look.

    With regards to army painter on faces, etc., none of the shades do it particularly well (the results are usually quite subtle IMHO), so if you want extra definition you might try adding a thin highlight on the eyebrows, nose, cheek bones, etc before applying AP. A bit of extra work of course, though it helps the faces to “pop”.


    • Thanks Rex, I’ve much appreciated your helpful comments. I’ll experiment with a watered down wash on the face next time I’m using Soft Tone. This will likely be on my FJ.

      Loving your Indians by the way!

  • ah ah, so you are sold on the thinner… 🙂

    • Totally…

      • The bases and the idea of the “tongue” (German prisoner) are brilliant.

        As for the camo, you did a good job. It gave me plenty of ideas.

        For the faces, a quick easy trick that may improve your game -although there are better techniques- : paint your flesh, apply a wash (flesh wash), highlight nose and under the eyes. You can build upon this approach

  • An excellent result. The bases look awesome. So the paint thinner makes a big difference? I was using German Grey last night and it was really gluggy. Thinner may be what I need.

    • Cheers Brendon! I’d certainly recommend Vallejo thinner for Vallejo paints. It keeps the colour the same (unlike water) whilst thinning the paint making it easier to work with.

  • Braxen, can you expand a little on what you mean by a flesh wash?


  • I’ve still got my citadel (GW) flesh wash – I’m sure there are other makes too. It’s basically a wash of skintone shadow colour.
    My face painting for model soldiers is basically Bone / fleshwash / then highlight with a touch of bone again or even just wipe the flesh wash off the high points to create highlights.. but then I’m lazy

  • Cheers Mark, some good tips there. I didn’t even know fleshwash existed to be honest.

    But then, I have lived a sheltered life.

  • Great looking minis. I love the detail on the basing – they really make the minis look even better!

  • Sneak peak of these pesky scouts in action from last nights game, which ran well into the early morning!

    5 hours of sweat and blood, 3000 points on the table, almost 250 images to review, action everywhere, AAR to follow in a couple of weeks, with comments from both Justin and Chris.

    • Great photos. The table and the figures look so good together.

      • Thanks Brendon, I was surprised at how easily identfiefiable the scouts were. That light khaki really stands out. I don’t know why I was so preoccupied with the amoeba pattern, you can’t see it at 3 ft. 🙂

  • Hello from a Model Dad down under.
    Thank you for your article it will be helpful when I paint my Russian Scouts in 1/35th scale figures. Does any one over there play FoW using 1/35th scale figures and vehicles? The effect is really great on a gaming table.

    • Hi John, thanks for taking the time to make a contribution. Always good to meet another model dad! 🙂 Glad you found the article useful. I’m not sure if folk play FoW with 1/35th scale figures over here. I’d hazard a guess and say no, not in the mainstream. I did see a 1/35th Arnhem game at Salute 2011, Graebner’s assault on the bridge was fantastic. Not sure what rules they were using. For some reason I think they were home grown, but stand to be corrected.

      Send us some photos of one of your games in progress and we’ll post them on the blog for all to see.

      • Hello Justin,
        There is a group of Skirmish Wargamers in the UK that play wargames using 1/32nd figures but they do not play FoW. I use FoW rules with only a few variations. The commend distances are doubled, movement distances are as given and the ranges are increased by 50%.
        I will send some photos of my French vs German games when I work out how to include them in the message.

        • Hi John, thanks for the heads-up. Sounds very, very interesting. If it’s easier, email across what you have as attachments to and we can post as an entry on the blog. How about a quick write-up telling us how your games play out. Be nice to have some words and pcitures 🙂

          • Justin,
            The photos are on the way and I will give you a write up when they are posted as I can then see how they came out.

  • Hi, just found your site. Some great stuff!
    I was thinking the blue camo would have been either for night operations or for urban , or even for snow…I know it’s not white, but could represent two tone shadow?

  • Hi, great looking minis! One thing I’m curious about… in the WIP basing photo it looks like you used some kind of putty to make a raised area on the base as well as securing the tree trunk.. What is that? I want to do something similar on my US para bases but the only thing I have for it is green stuff, which is a bit expensive for doing something like that..

    • Hi – I used milliput which is like green stuff but cheaper. You should be able to find it online no problem.

  • So for some strange reason I’ve acquired a Soviet scout platoon (thank you eBay) but not sure which unit organisation to use? Is a 3 man small command stand with 2×2 4 man medium stands the typical set up? How did you organise yours Justin? I’ve got red bear any ideas on what unit to use these chaps with?

    • Nice one. Yes, that’s a typical setup. Red Bear has numerous examples, check out page 27 for example. I based mine up accordingly.

      Bear in mind that Red Bear will be republished soon but I don’t expect any real changes that will effect these units.

      Does this help?

      Send us a photo of your amoebas please!

  • PannetoneMan
    3 years ago

    The Blue one is 1935 “Night Pattern”

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